The highest mountain in New York may only be 5, 2144’ but it is home to thousands of miles of historically rich hiking trails through diverse forests and ecosystems. 

Some trails date back to the Revolutionary War when soldiers blazed a path in upstate New York, through what is now known as Harriman State Park. 

 In the 1820’s famous artists such as Thomas Cole were inspired to paint the peaks of Catskills. And finally, New York State is home to the Adirondacks, the country’s largest park and state protected land area in the contiguous United States, with 6.1 million acres of land. What New York lacks in vertical elevation it makes up for in unsurpassed beauty. All within a day’s drive from New York City the country’s largest with a population of 8.41 million people. 

 Despite our wildernesses close proximity to such a large metropolitan area, the trails still offer plenty of solitude. I’ve put together a list of my 5 favorite backpacking trips. 

#5 The Blackhead Range, Catskills New York: A fairly short but moderately strenuous two day backpack of approximately 17 miles in the northern Catskills, including four peaks over 3500 feet and lovely scenery from the northern ridge of the Escarpment Trail. Day one of this trip starts at the northern terminus of the Escarpment Trail just outside of East Windham, NY. The rocky path winds its way up through a Norwegian Pine forest and up the first of four Catskill high peaks, Windham Mountain (3524’). The descent down Windham offers some great views from Burnt Knob and Acra Point. Dropping down from the Escarpment Trail to the Batavia Kill Trail a lean-to/tent sites and water source makes for a nice place to rest up for the next day’s adventure. The second day starts out with a climb of 1,000 feet in nine tenths of a mile to the top of Blackhead Mountain (3940’) the fourth highest peak in the Catskills. After descending Blackhead Mountain Trail the hike now picks up the Black Dome Trail to go up and over Black Dome (3980’) as well as Thomas Cole Mountain (3940’). The final descent off the ridge line offer views of the valley and surrounding mountain ranges. 

# 4 Pharaoh Lakes Wilderness Area, Eastern Adirondacks, NY: This area of the Adirondacks is a backpacker’s paradise, with its many lakes, ponds and miles of trails providing the opportunity for trips in a variety of lengths. This particular 3 day/2night backpacking trip will reach only one peak above 2000’ but the views of the many pristine lakes and ponds will more than make up for the lack of elevation. Day 1 follows the fairly easy terrain as it meanders through the heavily covered forest. After 2 miles the trail gets steeper and rockier until it reaches the top of Pharaoh Mountain (2551’). There are terrific views of the High Peaks in the distance from the rock ledges of the summit on the west side. The trail descends steeply at times and gives way to the beautiful shore line of Pharaoh Lake. There are six lean- to’s along the lake but my preferred camp is a legal spot right near the outlet of the lake called Winter Green Point. This fairly secluded location offers some solitude, gorgeous sunset views with the call of Loons into the night. On day 2, I continue my walk along Pharaoh Lake and the other small ponds, Grizzle Ocean and Clear Ponds and along the way choose a tent site near the Treadway Mountain Trail and set up a base camp before taking an afternoon hike up Treadway Mountain. The 4 mile round trip starts out in the forest and ends on top of a rocky summit offering views of Pharaoh Mountain and the High Peaks. After returning to my campsite and a good night’s rest the last day is spent hiking along the forested trails , taking frequent breaks at the small ponds and breathing in the last bit of serenity of this wilderness area. 

#3 The Rampo-Dunderberg Tail, Harriman State Park, NY: Built in the 1920’s by New York Hiking Clubs this is the oldest trail in the park. The 21.05 mile trail runs through Harriman State Park from Tuxedo to Jones Point, NY. The red-dot on white trail starts near the Tuxedo Station Parking area and continues through a residential neighborhood before the actual wooded trail begins. Slowly the switch backing trails go up giving way to a steeper climbing up Pine Hill. Continuing along it is important to stay alert to the trail markers, on this trail like many others in Harriman; you will pass by dozens of trail intersections. The trail continues to climb and descend before reaching the infamous Times Square intersection. Okay, it’s nothing like 42nd street in Manhattan but it is a big rock that says Times Square! In another 4 miles there is the William Brien Shelter, which I wouldn’t recommend staying in but the area around the shelter has quite a few tent sites. And with a fairly reliable water source only a short walk away it makes for a great place to rest up for the long 12 miles to the end of the trail. The second days walk just never seems to end and goes something like this up one side of a hill, down the other, cross a road and back up another hill! Thankfully, most of the day there are lovely views of the surrounding area and make it all worth it. The trail drops steeply down to 9W at 21 miles with a short walk to a large parking area where I usually spot a car. This overnight backpacking trip is not to be underestimated! It will leave your quads screaming and dogs barking for sure. 

 #2 Panthers Gorge, Adirondacks, NY: Using this area as a base camp to tag Haystack (4960’), Marcy (5344’)and Skylight (4924’) is ideal and the bonus of the gorge to swim in on a hot summer’s day. Following the well-marked, Elk Lake Marcy Trail for 9 miles to the Panther Gorge Lean to is a fairly easy but muddy hike. I usually spend day one hiking into camp and spend the next day tagging the high peaks. My usual route in good weather is up the climb up Haystack (4960’), a very steep, rock scrambling experience. The description from the guide book describes the climb up Haystack as “one of the steepest climbs in the mountains up the south side of the peak. It is unremittingly steep with numerous small ledges posing danger of a serious fall. The trail is quite eroded in spots and offers no respite to timberline”. It may be tough but the climb up Haystack is work the incredible views of the Adirondack range and a great place to take a few minutes to rest up for the next climb up Mount Marcy (5344’).The trail along the ridge from Haystack goes over Little Haystack and down a few hundred feet to start the ascent up Mt. Marcy via the Hovenberg Trail following cairns along the slabs of open rock to the summit. In good weather the summit of Marcy is a wonderful place to linger and soak in the views of the Great Range. With the hardest part of the day hike done the descent down Marcy goes quickly and soon returns to below tree line and before long reaching outlet of Lake Tear of the Clouds, the highest pond source of the Hudson River. Just after this is the Four Corners Junction which joins the red trail to Mt. Skylight (4926’) and a quick 1 mile round trip to tag yet another high peak and back to Marcy-Elk Lake Trail back to the campsite. This 1.2 mile rocky trail is quite eroded in spots and requires careful attention to footing, especially after hard rain, becoming more like a river. Finally reaching the Panther Gorge crossing and back to a well-deserved evening at the campsite before hiking the 9 miles back to my car at the Elk Lake Parking area in the morning. 

#1 Devils Path, Catskills, NY: This trip follows the Devil’s Path over what Backpacker Magazine says is “the most challenging trail in the Northeast” with a reported 14,000’ of elevation change over 23.1 miles. My preferred route for this hike is from East to West over 3 days/2 nights. Beginning on Prediger Road near the Town of Hunter the red blazes don’t waste any time following the steep trail up Sherman’s Lookout, known as the chin of the Indian, and the summit of Indian Head Mountain (3573’). Like many parts of the Devil’s Path the trail up Indian Head is extremely steep something I really never get used to but come to expect on this particular trail. The trail then descends into Jimmy Dolan’s Notch, the highest col on the trail at 3,200 ft, before the rock scramble up Twin Mountain (3640’). The view off the southern summit of Twin has incredible views of Slide Mountain and all the other major peaks in the Catskill Range. After scrambling over the next high peak, Sugarloaf Mountain (3800’) the trail drops steeply down a rock chute nick named “Suicide Mountain”; this is considered one of the most challenging descents on the entire Devil’s Path. From here the end of day one is in sight and I get on the Mink Hollow Trail where a lean to, reliable water source and tent sites provide a nice place to rest up for the challenging day ahead. Day two begins with a…you guessed it! A steep and rocky climb up Plateau Mountain (3840’), a viewless summit but a nice flat walk through a boreal forest. Further along the trail, Danny’s Lookout gives way to views of Hunter, Southwest Hunter and West Kill Mountain. From here the trail goes descends to Route 214, the trails only road crossing, which is about the half-way point of the Devil’s Path. There is an area with picnic tables, a water spigot and a great place to stop for lunch before the next steep climb up past the large stone outcrops known as the Devils Portal. The forested trail on the western section of the Devil’s Path goes by the Devil’s Acre lean to where I usually pick up more water before pressing on to my next camp site, Diamond Notch Falls. There is a nice lean to up off the blue-blazed Diamond Notch Trail but further along the path is a lovely secluded tent site with good tree cover. Water? No problem! A nice late afternoon stroll down to the roaring Diamond Notch Falls provides much need drinking water and a great swimming hole. Day three gets easier after the long slog of a climb up West Kill Mountain (3880’), the sixth highest peak in the Catskills and the only high peak in this section of the Devil’s Path. The summit of West Kill has no views but just before the official summit is Buck Ridge Lookout with views of Hunter and Southwest Hunter, Slide and Peekamoose Mountains. The Devil’s Path descends gradually over the next two miles before the last rocky chute up St. Anne’s Peak. Only a short climb but by this point in the trip my legs are revolting against me! Luckily soon after, the trail switchbacks down through a nice forested trail and to the spotted car on Spruceton Road where I usually say to myself “I think it’s the last time I’m doing this trail” only to return the next summer to what has become my favorite backpacking trip in my New York.